Prison Island of Zanzibar

 

A ferry from Zanzibar to Prison Island

The original name of Quarantine Island or Prison Island of Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa was Changuu Island. The name - Changuu Island, had originated from a local variety of Changuu fish which is abundant in the water of Indian Ocean.

The island is a mystic, calm, serene spot with abundance of natural beauty in Zanzibar Archipelago in the pristine water of Indian Ocean. This picturesque small island is located at about 6 kilometers away, as the crow flies, from the shore of Stone Town of Zanzibar.

Dhow or country boat

The journey from the beach of Stone Town to the shore of Prison Island can be best enjoyed by traditional dhow or fishing boats. In olden days these boats would be rowed by sailors. 

Dhow of Zanzibar

But today they are mechanized. A dhow is as simple as one can imagine. 

Dhow as water sports

On a rickety hull there are two wooden planks on both sides, facing each other, for accommodating the passengers. There is a temporary shade of tarpaulin overhead to escape from Sun and rain, with enough of ventilation. At the rear there is a power packed Yamaha outboard engine with propeller, which is operated by the sole boatman. Of course, to make the tourists comfortable there will be always a jerry-can full of diesel.

Vastness of Indian Ocean

The initial feel is scary. Travelling this distance in turbulent water in such a country boat, particularly when the sky is partially covered with moisture laden clouds (during monsoon), really takes on the nerves. But once on board, one can forget the rest of the world.

No jetty for landing

There is no requirement of jetty per say for such dhows. Tourists can board the dhow at ankle deep or knee deep water at the sandy beach of Stone Town. Once away from the shore, the dhow is tossed by two forces acting perpendicularly at each other. The thrust of mighty waves pushes the dhows to the left or to the right while the propulsion of the engine from the end forces it forward. A non-stop roaring of engine from the rear breaks the eerie silence of the ambience. The pungent smell of diesel oil wafted out from the engine mingles with salty breeze of the ocean.

The boat commences its sailing from the beach as a missile whose cross-hair has been locked with the Prison Island, visible as a dot over the horizon. The dot grows in dimension, both longitudinally and vertically, as the distance between boat and island reduces with passage of every minute. The journey of less than half an hour is mesmerizing. In the voyage, several ships and boats are found sailing in the water. Some are moving towards Zanzibar, while some are just enjoying the buoyancy in the high water by lowering the anchors. A few smaller islands are visible from a distance. One wonders whether there is habitation. Can one get down in one of these islands for the sake of adventure? 

Irresistible call of distance

A prison was built on the Changuu Island to detain the rebellious slaves. The construction of the prison was started in May 1893 and by the end of 1894, the phase 1 of construction was over. However it was never commissioned as a prison. But the name Prison Island got attached to it from the constructed prison.

The trade through Zanzibar and so was its revenue through the merchandise were rising. This time, the trade sea route was affected by two epidemics. Cholera broke out in Egypt (1893) and it claimed about 58,000 lives. At the same time, Bubonic Plague spread as epidemic in Bombay, India (Sept 1896). It was reported that average Plague related death in Bombay was 2000 per week and it continued till the end of the year 1896.

At that time, lots of workers and labors were being brought from Bombay to Uganda via Zanzibar, when the work for Uganda Railways was in progress.

Considering the possible impact on the commerce, Sultan of Zanzibar ordered that the newly constructed prison at Changuu Island, which was yet to be made operational, be converted into quarantine facility. Accordingly, Dr. Alfred Henry Spurrier (1862-1935), who was then Special Officer-in-charge of Plagues in Zanzibar and East Africa was given the responsibility to establish quarantine system in Changuu Island. A medical team was set up at the prison building, comprising doctor, stewards, assistants, cooks, sweepers etc. Thus the prison building of Changuu Island was christened as ‘Quarantine Hospital’ and island was called ‘Quarantine Island’, though for a brief period.

The prison partially collapsed over time due to disuse. At a later date, the ruins of the prison were painstakingly and artfully restored, renovated keeping its original design intact and turned into a private holiday resort of today. 

Restored prison area

The property is called Changuu Private Island Paradise (Prison Island) wherein ‘Prison’ word cannot be missed. The other attractions inside the resort are Prison Restaurant (7 am to 6 pm), Prison Library, Prison Boutique, Prison Trattoria 1893, Jail house rock (in the evening) etc.

Multiple choice

The island is the property of the Tanzanian Government. An entry fee of US $ 4 per head is levied to the non-Tanzanian tourists for visiting the Island. A casual walk of one hour is enough to complete a circle around the periphery of the island. The length of the island is about 800 m and at the broadest point, width is 230 m.

See you again

A better option, for the tourists, is to visit the Tortoise Sanctuary, maintained by Save the Tortoises Foundation where Aldabra giant tortoises are kept and bred in captivity. It is indeed an awesome experience. One can see, touch and walk side by side of many such humble giants.

But that’s a different story.

 

*************************